List of Figures
Acknowledgments

Introduction
Anna Colquhoun, Katharina Graf & Harry G. West

Part I: Lands

Chapter 1. Terroir in Contested Territories
Anne Meneley

Chapter 2. Beating the Bounds of Terroir: A Perambulation of the Micro and Macro Cultures of Cidermaking in Devon, England
Simon Pope & Harry G. West

Chapter 3. Fishnets: Land-Sea Relationalities and Contingencies in Coastal Latvian “Taste of Place”
Guntra A. Aistara

Chapter 4. On Being Placeless? The Case of Vegan Cheeses
Sarah Czerny

Chapter 5. What’s Mine Is Mine and What’s Yours Is Mine: The Terroirism of Nash in Russian Culinary Colonialism
Melissa L. Caldwell

Part II: Laws

Chapter 6. The Domaće Relations of Cured Pork: “Homemade” Resistance to Terroir Products in Croatian Istria
Anna Colquhoun

Chapter 7. From Terroir to Viticultural Bricolages: Facing Environmental Challenges in Burgundy
Marion Demossier

Chapter 8. Food Producers and Place Brands in Contemporary Japan
Greg de St. Maurice

Chapter 9. Shifting Wind, Eternal Earth: Lapsang Souchong, a Foreign Fengtu Comes Home
Kunbing Xiao

Part III: Bodies

Chapter 10. Domestic Cooks’ Work toward Moroccan Beldi Foods
Katharina Graf

Chapter 11. Culinary Mestizaje: On the Making of an Authentic Cuban Taste of Place
Hanna Garth

Chapter 12. Food, Place, and Personhood in South India: The Limits of Terroir
James Staples

Chapter 13. To Chop Means to Eat: The Cosmology of Taste in Ghanaian Foodways
Brandi Simpson Miller

Part IV: Imaginaries

Chapter 14. Terroir in Future Tense? Gender, Taste, and Emplacement in an Age of Borders
Charlotte Sanders

Chapter 15. British-born Chinese Restaurateurs and the Reinvention of Chinese Cuisine
Jakob A. Klein

Chapter 16. “Good Wine” (Dobro Vino) and the Social Imaginary of Place: Wine Quality Debates in the Bulgarian Wine Industry
Yuson Jung

Chapter 17. Intimacy at Scale: Sovereignty as Political Temporality
Cristina Grasseni

Afterword: Thinking, and Becoming, Beyond Terroir
Heather Paxson & Brad Weiss

Index

Food Beyond Terroir

Tasting Place and Placing Taste in Global Perspective

Edited by Anna Colquhoun and Katharina Graf

378 pages, 34 ills., bibliog., index

ISBN 978-1-83695-187-2 Hb Published (October 2025)

Details

“Food Beyond Terroir offers global perspectives on the cultural, social and political aspects of the connection between food and place. The case studies and theoretical chapters are sure to spur excellent discussions in the classroom.” • Rachel Black, Connecticut College

“An outstanding collection, which provides a genuine rethinking of terroir. Each chapter piqued my interest and got me to think about familiar topics in new ways. Food Beyond Terroir is sure to be a touchstone for future scholarship on the “taste of place,” and required reading across the spectrum of food studies.” • David Sutton, Southern Illinois University

“This is an exciting new collection of critical perspectives on taste of place by leading theorists working with diverse and rich empirical material.” • Krishnendu Ray, New York University

“How do people come to believe that they can taste place, history, culture, and more in their food? Is “terroir” just marketing hype or is it the antithesis to bland globalization? Readable and sometimes provocative, these essays are essential for anyone who wants to understand the contested connections between food and place.” • David I. Berriss, University of New Orlean

From winemaking in occupied territories to fishing in polluted seas, home cooking in refugee communities, and vegan cheesemaking, this collection explores the complex ways taste and place intersect with political, ecological, social, and economic issues. Through diverse ethnographic case studies, leading food scholars examine the meaning and making of place and taste. In doing so, the book challenges terroir-inspired notions of a fixed taste of place and pushes the boundaries of what we think we know about taste-place relations.

Anna Colquhoun is a social anthropologist based at the SOAS Food Studies Centre. Her research interests include culinary tourism and the cultural economy, hospitality and cooking, and localized and post-socialist food systems.

Katharina Graf is a social anthropologist based at Goethe University Frankfurt, Germany She has recently published Food and Families in the Making: Knowledge Reproduction and Political Economy of Cooking in Morocco (Berghahn, 2024).

Series: Volume 9, Food, Nutrition, and Culture

Subject: Food & Nutrition Political and Economic Anthropology Anthropology (General)

Area:

BISAC: SOC002010 SOCIAL SCIENCE/Anthropology/Cultural & Social; SOC055000 SOCIAL SCIENCE/Agriculture & Food; SOC066000 SOCIAL SCIENCE/Refugees

available open access under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (CC BY 4.0) with support from MIT Anthro, Goethe University, and SOAS University.

berghahn New York · Oxford

Contents

Food Beyond Terroir

Tasting Place and Placing Taste in Global Perspective

Edited by Anna Colquhoun and Katharina Graf

Series: Volume 9, Food, Nutrition, and Culture

Subject: Food & Nutrition Political and Economic Anthropology Anthropology (General)

Area:

This title is published as Open Access

Full Text PDF | Full Text ePUB Made available under a CC BY 4.0 license with support from MIT Anthro, Goethe University, and SOAS University.

Home -> Title

Contents

Food Beyond Terroir

Tasting Place and Placing Taste in Global Perspective

Edited by Anna Colquhoun and Katharina Graf

Series: Volume 9, Food, Nutrition, and Culture

Subject: Food & Nutrition Political and Economic Anthropology Anthropology (General)

Area:

This title is published as Open Access

Full Text PDF | Full Text ePUB Made available under a CC BY 4.0 license with support from MIT Anthro, Goethe University, and SOAS University.